Aconcagua Express
...your logistics support on Mount Aconcagua...

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Dear Guest!

Our 2009 /2010 Aconcagua climbing season is safely and successfully behind us.  Aconcagua Express Expeditions started 22 years ago with simple logistics support such as mules and base camp services, and today it operates some of the safest & most successful Aconcagua expeditions in the park.

I will particularly mention our last 4 seasons, when we had to change our Guanacos route to our current Ameghino & Upper Guanacos route because of park policy reasons. This change, decided upon by Park authorities, actually enhanced our logistics by using our permanent Plaza Argentina base camp located on the Polish Glacier route. This new Ameghino & Upper Guanacos route resulted in  better support to our expeditions from our PA base camp, as we now never have to send any assistant guides down as we did on the old route, when every member had to return to base camp accompanied by one of them... nowadays we have better and realistic aid from our competent and helpful base camp personnel, ranging from preparing hot meals and water for the expeditions, to making arrangements for a helicopter or mules considering all possible scenarios called in by the guides’ radio. Our clients also like sharing with other teams at base camp, meeting new friends, and eventually hiking together to the high camps. We had expeditions following our beautiful Guides Tatiana & Billy.  Our base camp, called by many the “Best on Aconcagua” is really comfortable and has exquisite food, which really helps the acclimatization process translating into safety and success in most cases!

I also want to mention the consistent successful climbing teams on the Polish Glacier. Since the 2007 season, we operate the most successfully commercial Polish Glacier ascents together with our German partner, DAV Summit Club. The first year we led 10 members (out of 11) to the summit and this year, we stood on the summit once again with 3 clients taking the same route! I don’t mention this to compare to the 98% success rate of our Ameghino & Upper Guanacos route or to the 85% success rate on the Normal route....This Polish Glacier route is an extremely compromise one, and it look like Aconcagua Express Expeditions has created a safe and successful climbing plan with the BEST GUIDES & Assistants to assure safety all the way to summit and back to base camp. I am not calling for applicants, as we will always limit the departures on this route to proven experienced climbers with excellent training and good climbing techniques....But we feel proud with today’s results and wanted to share this information with everyone!

I send my warmest regards to those who have shared our passion this past season and I welcome those who are planning to share the upcoming season with Aconcagua Express Expeditions to climb Aconcagua, one of the world’s “must do” experiences for climbers!

Sincerely,

Joaquin Oyarzun B.
Director