Marvelous ascent of Aconcagua
6,959m via Vacas Valley, following the Polacos route.During the
trek to the base
camp at Plaza Argentina, we will see a variety of native fauna and
flora, guanacos and condors. At camp 2 near 5,850m we traverse to
the Normal route and continue to the summit, this is know as the
Falso Polaco or the Traverse route.
For the descent we will follow
the standard route to the base camp at Plaza de Mulas and exit through
the Horcones Valley.
This trip features spectacular views of Aconcagua,
particularly along the less frequented ascent route.
Duration
20 days
Difficulty
Excellent Physical Shape
Departures
AEE002-1 November 28 - December 17, 2010.
AEE002-2 December 03 - December 22, 2010.
AEE002-3 December 05 - December 25, 2010.
AEE002-4 December 12 - December 31, 2010.
AEE002-5 December 19 - January 07, 2011.
AEE002-6 December 26 - January 14, 2011.
AEE002-7 January 02 - January 21, 2011.
AEE002-8 January 09 - January 28, 2011.
AEE002-9 January 16 - February 04, 2011.
Expedition cost
US $ 4,200 US $3,600 per person minimum 6 clients
Single room suplement
US $ 500
Reservation cost
US $ 700
Balance payment date
75 days prior departure
Space available
12 climbers
Service included
Professional Bilingual Mountain Guide.
Ratio, Guide to Clients 1-3.
Porter for group gear (tents) from base camp to Camp 1, 2, 3 & down Plaza de Mulas.
Mules for individual gear to base camp and return with 25 kg.
pp.
High quality expedition common gear: The North Face, Mountain
Hardware & Marmot tents, isolate mattress, high
camp stoves & Gaz.
First aid kit, hyperbaric chamber, oxygen bottles, oximeter,
including O2 at our high camps.
Satellite phone the entire expedition, per minute payment basis.
Radio communication VHF & BLU HF.
Full base camp set up dining tent, chair, tables, etc..
All meals during the expedition in the mountain.
Permanent access to hot drinks, tea, coffee, biscuits at base
camp tent.
Mendoza two Hotel nights double occupancy with breakfast at the
NH Hotel or equivalent .
Penitentes two Hotel night with double occupancy with half pension.
Private transportation including airport pick-up and drop-off.
Airport assistance in Mendoza.
All local organization and supervision by Aconcagua Express Staff
The Aconcagua, Summit Of America book by Mauricio Fernandez.
Service does not include
Aconcagua climbing permit per person.
All personal climbing gear.
Porter for personal gear, except for those who have purchased this service.
Any cost involve in a early or late departure.
Meals & drinks in Mendoza.
Airport drop off.
Accident and rescue insurance.
Cash for extra expenses.
Any other service not mentioned in the
list.
Gratuities are not included.
Day by day Itinerary
Day 1 Picked up Plumerillos airport at Mendoza
and transferred to Hotel to meet the guides, gear check and have
a power point expedition presentation. Later we got have a great
Argentinean asado. Hotel
Day 2 Transfer to Aconcagua Provincial Park permit office, to obtain
the respective climbing permits, a mandatory personal procedure,
and then head west to the village of Penitentes, situated at the
foot of the valleys that access the mountain. Lodging at Hotel Penitentes.
Day 3 The Aconcagua Express vehicles transport us to the area called
Punta de Vacas where we begin the first day’s trek towards
the foot of Aconcagua through Vacas valley. This is a beautiful less
traveled route with greener landscapes than the normal route. After
4 to 5 hours of hiking we reach our first camp called Pampa de Leña
situated at an elevation of 2,800m. Here we eat a delicious barbecue
along with the muleteers while the animals graze. Tent.
Day 4 Continuing along the same valley for 6 to 7 hours, we reach
Casa de Piedra camp situated at an elevation of 3,200m. From camp
up through the Relinchos pass we can clearly see the Polacos glacier
on Aconcagua. This is the route we will take the next day. Tent.
Day 5 We climb up the steep and marvelous Relinchos valley to our
base camp called Plaza Argentina situated at 4,200m. This is a long
8-hour day where we climb 1,000 vertical meters to reach Plaza Argentina.
Our chef awaits us with hot drinks and a big dinner. Tent.
Day 6 Rest day at Plaza Argentina base camp. It is necessary to
keep hydrated and rest in order to adapt well to the altitude before
continuing on to the high camps and before summit day. Tent.
Day 7 Rest and hike around Plaza Argentina base camp. Tent.
Day 8 We carry part of the equipment up to high camp 1 and return
to Plaza Argentina base camp. The trail leaves camp towards an old
moraine until we reach camp 1 at an elevation of 4,822m. This trek
is considered light in terms of weight to continue with an optimal
adaptation to the altitude. This is the basic plan of successive
stages: climbing up to high elevations and returning to lower ones,
a key factor for safety and acclimatization. If this ascent plan
is done slowly it increases the possibilities of success in reaching
the summit in a comfortable and safe manner. Plaza Argentina camp.Tent.
Day 9 We climb to camp 1 to sleep at that elevation. The surroundings
are truly magnificent in the heart of the Central Andes. Tent.
Day 10 We continue to camp 2 situated at the foot of Polacos glacier
at an elevation of 5,760m. This ascent is incredibly beautiful since
we can see the glacier in its full magnitude and several peaks that
surround Aconcagua. We return to Plaza Argentina base camp to rest
and recover energy. Tent.
Day 11 Rest at Plaza Argentina base camp. Tent.
Day 12 Climb to camp 1. Tent.
Day 13 Climb to camp 2. Tent.
Day 14 Traverse crossing from camp 2 to the foot of Polacos glacier
towards Piedras Blancas camp at 6,030m. The trail is clear and easy
to see from camp. This is the point at which the Polacos Traverse
route and the normal route meet. It is also the camp where those
trekking the Guanacos route arrive. Tent.
Day 15 We attempt summit from Piedras Blancas returning to the Berlin
high camp. Tent.
Day 16 Extra day allowing for weather conditions in Berlin high
camp. Tent.
Day 17 Second extra day allowing for weather conditions in Berlin
high camp. Tent.
Day 18 Descent on normal route towards our Plaza de Mulas base camp.
Tent.
Day 19 From Plaza de Mulas we have mules to help
carry out our gear, allowing for a “light” trek through
Playa Ancha and Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes in a
6 to 7 hour hike. At the
Park Rangers station transport awaits us to take us to Hotel in Mendoza
to reach the comfort of this beautiful Argentinean city and meet
later
for our group dinner at a super local restaurant with all the
guides and assistants. Hotel NH or Hyatt.
Day 20 Free day. Transfe to aiport.
Important
All itineraries are subject to change due to
changes in the weather, individual’s acclimatization rates and the guide’s
preferences.
Personal porter service available
upon request at additional cost.
To ascend the Polacos glacier by the direct
route, the client requires previous experience in this type of
climb, the safe use of crampons, ice axe, jumar ascending device,
as well as an excellent management of climbing techniques, self
arest, use of ropes and rappel. The program follows the same
route as the group that traverses from camp2 to 6,000m. The group
divides at the same point where the ascent of the Polacos glacier
begins. The group comes down through “la Canaleta" on
the normal route towards Plaza Argentina.
Any
departure dates can be re-scheduled with a minimum of 6 person.
Climb Aconcagua with Aconcagua-ExpressExpeditions
Augusto Mira Fernandez 14248 Las Condes CP 7591409 Santiago Chile - Phone (56 2) 217 91 01
All Photos in this website are taken by Joaquin Oyarzún, except indicated as
*
E-mail: info@aconcagua-express.com