Routes on Mt. Aconcagua

AE offers expeditions on the 4 main routes within the Park.

The Northwest Route known as the normal or classic route does not require technical experience but rather a good physical and mental condition especially for the final phase known as “la Canaleta” where the climber’s resistance and willpower are put to test.

The climate and altitude variables are the biggest challenge on all Aconcagua routes.

This route is characterized by its high traffic and concentration of people in the Plaza de Mulas base camp. The trail goes up to the Nido de Cóndores (Condors Nest) high camp at 5,400m and continues on to Berlin at 5,950m, and from this small camp the final stretch is made to the summit at 6,959m.

The Polacos & Traverse Route starts 9 kilometers east of Penitentes with a three-day trek through the Vacas and Relinchos valley, where we can see flora and fauna including Andean flowers and condors, until reaching the Plaza Argentina base camp at 4,140m. After climbing up to the high camps 1 and 2, the latter situated at the foot of the glacier, the traverse crossing is made towards the west to Piedras Blancas at 6,000m. This is a very protected, clean, and peaceful high camp. Its access is also possible from Nido de Cóndores just before reaching the Berlin camp. From this camp, Piedras Blancas the final stretch is made to the summit at 6,959m. The descent is on the normal route to the Plaza de Mulas base camp and we go out through the Horcones valley, making this expedition a way to see more of the Aconcagua mountain.

The Polacos Route The Polacos Route starts 9 kilometers east of Penitentes with a three-day trek through the Vacas and Relinchos valley to reach the Plaza Argentina base camp at 4,140 m. We climb to camps 1 and 2, the latter situated at the foot of the glacier. From this point we begin to ascend the glacier towards the summit. There are two routes to ascend the glacier, the traditional one through Piedra Bandera and the direct route more frequently climbed in the past few years. This route requires experience in ice climbing, self arrest techniques, use of ice axe, jumars (ascending devices), crampons and ropes. We are serious when we offer this route. If you sign up for this route it WILL be a Polish Glacier expedition. You will not be placed on another expedition with the “possibility” of doing the Polish Glacier. Applicants for this route need to be serious and in outstanding physical condition. This route is a step up from all the other standard routes on the mountain in terms of technical difficulty.

Guanacos & Traverse Route Guanacos & Traverse Route starts 9 kilometers east of Penitentes with a three-day trek through the Vacas valley to Casa de Piedra from where we continue to the head of the valley to reach our base camp (Plaza Guanacos). This route is long and is a true exploration of Aconcagua!! The Guanacos is in many ways the only true expedition style route on the mountain. It has four remote camps above base camp. It is the most secluded route on the mountain, apart from the routes on the famous south wall. The Guanacos route is also known as “Valle Superior” (Upper Valley), making a complete crossing of the mountain observing the varied landscapes that surround the huge massif of Aconcagua. Our route up to base camp is very natural and untouched, it is common to see guanacos, abundant vegetation, small springs of water, huge extensions of glaciers and an extraordinarily beautiful Andean environment, all far from the human traffic that characterizes the traditional routes of Horcones and Relinchos. The Guanacos route is also the one that offers the most gradual ascent between our five camps, making this route the best choice for natural acclimatization. The descent is down the normal route to our full service base camp at Plaza de Mulas and the exit is through the Horcones valley, thus getting to know the entire mountain. This has been a very popular trip for us.

Aconcagua Express is a pioneer in exploring and transporting gear by mules on this route!!!! In 1995, an AE guide supported by the muleteer, Guillermo Coz, opened up this route, which is certainly the most beautiful on the mountain. The Aconcagua Express muleteers are highly experienced!!!